Basement Bar Plans

Basement Bar Plans

Basement Bar Planning – Getting Started A generously-sized bar with a TV and comfortable barstools is a good beginning but for convenience, consider a bar sink and small fridge. Step #1 in planning a basement bar can be summarized in four words: Think about a sink. There’s no doubt that a “wet” bar affords much more convenience than a bar without a sink. This plumbing will cost extra, of course. But if you’re already planning on a basement bathroom, the extra cost for a small barkeep’s sink will be negligible. It’s usually smart to locate the sink close to the basement bathroom if possible, because the sink will probably need to drain into the same holding tank that serves the bathroom. You can install the sink in a basement wall, or it can be incorporated into the design of your bar, placed out of view below bartop level. Basement Bar Floor Plan Drawn a plan for your bar area to ¼-in. scale on graph paper. Allow 30-in. to 36-in. between bar counters and back bar. It’s not easy to fit everything you want into the available floor space for your basement bar. This is especially true if your wish list includes a pool table, a large sofa, or a dart board with a fairly safe flight path. It’s smart to make like an architect and draw up a floor plan of your basement. If you don’t have a CAD program on your computer, just get some graph paper to make your scale drawing. Make cutouts of your major items (bar, couch, TV, etc.) so it’s easy to move them around. With a working floor plan, you’ll also be able to establish where ceiling lights, doorways and walls should be. There may be special considerations plumbing. This is where an experienced basement finishing expert can be a big help. Designing the Bar Itself Bar countertops may be made of stone, stone composite, solid surface, or wood. The latter is the least expensive but will require the application of a durable finish. There’s no need to feel intimidated about designing the actual bar where you (the host) will be dispensing drinks and (hopefully) wisdom. From a construction point of view, a bar is simply a large cabinet with some special hardware and a distinctive top. Cabinet shops as well as hobbyist woodworkers have access to brass footrail hardware, bartop edge molding, ornate detail moldings (such as fluted pilasters and baseboard profiles) and even high-gloss bartop varnishes. Readymade bars are also available from some home furnishing suppliers. If you’re building your bar from scratch (or having a cabinet shop handle the construction), first decide on the size and shape, and whether or not you want the bar to include a small sink and/or refrigerator. Then determine what type of wood and finish you’d like, and the material you want to use for the bartop. Although varnished wood is most popular bartop material, some people prefer plastic laminate, solid surface countertop material, or solid marble. Don’t Forget Sound Control SilverGlo™, attached to basement walls, will dramatically lower the need to heat your basement. To reduce sound transmission between the basement and floor above, fill joist bays with rock wool, also known as stone wool. An experienced basement finishing contractor is certain to mention the importance of insulation in the basement. Rigid foam insulation installed against or adjacent to foundation walls will make the basement more comfortable and more energy efficient. But you may also want to have sound insulation between your basement bar and the upstairs. There are different ways to acoustically isolate your basement from the rest of the house. Installing a suspended ceiling in the basement will provide a measure of sound insulation. So will insulated (foam-core) and weatherstripped doors, installed at the top of the basement stairs and on the bar’s basement doorway. Talk to your contractor about these and other sound insulation options if you think your basement bar is destined to be unusually noisy. Keeping a Basement Bar Clean & Organized Near the bar area, choose a flooring that will be easy to clean. When planning a basement bar, it’s a good idea to think ahead about what happens after you and a few friends get to enjoy this nice new space. That’s right; someone has to clean up. There are a number of ways to keep your basement bar organized and simplify the cleanup process. Start by installing flooring that’s durable, waterproof, stain-resistant and attractive to boot –TBF’s ThermalDry® flooring fits the bill nicely (but don’t use the carpeted ThermalDry® tiles). Incorporate a small closet into your bar’s floor plan where you can keep cleaning supplies handy but out of sight. Spray-type cleaners, paper towels, rubber gloves and trash bags are in order; you might also consider a compact vacuum. Another must-have item is an ample rectangular rubber tub; you’ll need this to transport dirty glasses and dishes upstairs for washing (unless your basement bar includes a dedicated dishwashing machine). Make provisions for storing beverages in bulk, but these drinks should also be out of sight, perhaps on closet shelves above your cleaning supplies. Control the Lights to Manipulate the Mood Dimmer switches are a must for bar areas. Use low-voltage, in-cabinet accent lights for decorative effect. It’s easy to overlook the importance of good lighting. Taking the time to plan a suitable lighting scheme will make a huge difference in any basement bar. Start by identifying where you need task lighting –brighter light necessary for mixing drinks, reading, playing pool, using the bathroom or subjecting the dart board to close examination. It’s a good idea to provide separate switches for task lights, since you probably don’t want their bright, focused illumination all the time. The ambient or overall light in your bar can come from ceiling lights and from floor or table-mounted lamps. Put as many of your ambient lights on dimmer controls as possible. Dimming your ambient light enables you to control the mood in your bar. For the sake of energy efficiency, try to select compact fluorescent lights (CFLs) or LED lights rather than inefficient incandescent lights. Provide Serious Humidity Control Keep waterproofing equipment, such as sump pump and dehumidifier in a space that’s separate from the bar area. The SaniDry™ dehumidifier, with its powerful blower, may be vented to your bar area from an adjacent utility space. All of the basement finishing materials available from Basement Systems –flooring, wall panels, insulation, moldings, and ceiling panels—are designed to stand up to typical and even excessive moisture conditions in the basement. No matter how moist your basement gets, you’ll never have to worry about these materials being damaged, supporting mold or deteriorating due to warping, cracking or rotting. But there will be many other items in a finished basement that aren’t as moisture resistant –leather-covered furniture, books & magazines, fabrics and wood, for example. To eliminate the possibility of moisture-related damage, it’s smart to have a dehumidifier in your basement. Not just any dehumidifier, but one that’s designed to perform efficiently and reliably in the cool, humid basement environment. With a SaniDry™ dehumidifier from Basement Systems, you can be sure that you’re getting the most efficient, most reliable performance available. This ENERGY STAR® appliance will drain automatically into a sump pump, and you can dial in the level of dehumidification you desire.
basement bar plans 1

Basement Bar Plans

I then added the oak trim pieces, I used a 1×8 on the bottom and 1×4’s to trim it out the rest of the way. The trim gives it detail and depth and hides the seams where the plywood comes together. Pretty simple so far, the next step is to build your bar top, this is where it gets a little more complicated. To give your bar that professional bar look I would go with a Chicago Bar Rail to rest your elbows on when at the bar. It cost about 12 dollars a foot but to me it is worth it. If you decide to build your bar top using a Chicago bar rail this  requires two pieces of  3/4” plywood one on top of each other. I bought regular standard sheet for the bottom and another oak veneer sheet  for the top.As  you can see from the illustration from above how  your bar rail sits on the bar top. Your bottom sheet has to be 1” 9/16” wider then your top sheet where you are going to have your Chicago bar rail. I made sure I cut the bottom sheet so I would have 10  inches of overhang on the bar where people will sit and your bar stools will be. This gives you enough room so your knees don’t hit the front of the bar when you sit on the stool and straddle up to the bar. If you use a foot rail you might go with more of an overhang. You screw the bottom sheet from the top on to the frame. Then you rip your top sheet remembering where the bar rail will have to be 1”  9/16” less then what you cut your bottom sheet. You then screw the top sheet onto the bottom sheet by screwing under the bottom sheet. Use 1 1/4 wood screws so your screws don’t come through the top of the bar. Now you can add your bar rail to your top. You have two options here, you can go with a rounded corners or you can go with mitered corners, or you can do what I did and do one of each. I would suggest you go with mitered corners, because the rounded corner is 125.00 each and is also a more difficult to cut your top to fit on the rounded corner. For a video showing how to cut a mitered corner on the Chicago bar rail (Click Here) Mitering the bar rail is easy, just use a 2×4 and set your bar rail onto the 2×4 where the bar rail sits on the bottom sheet of your bar top. You don’t need a biscuit joiner like in the video, just make sure your screws are long enough to go into the bar rail and short enough so they don’t come through the top of your bar rail.

Basement Bar Plans

Basement Bar Plans
Basement Bar Plans
Basement Bar Plans
Basement Bar Plans
Basement Bar Plans